Breeding Program | How We Raise Our Shibas

We are a small kennel, concentrating on quality, not quantity. You will not see 20 or 30 breeding animals at our home - it is not necessary to keep a "herd" to produce some of the finest quality Shibas in North America. We also do not believe the Shiba is a good kennel dog - they are very personable individuals who require attention and love on a one-to-one basis.

SunoJo Shiba Inu have been among the top-ranked Shibas in Canada since breed recognition, and we are pleased to have sent dogs to South America and Europe, as well as to the US. Click here for a list of SunoJo champions.

While we are extremely active in the conformation show ring, and plan our breedings to produce the next generation of champions, we have never faltered from our principles in selecting only the best breeding stock:

• Temperament: All our dogs must be mentally sound, human oriented, and a pleasure to be around. Doesn't matter how pretty they are if you can't live with them!
• Health: The breed is robust and generally healthy - BUT there have been reports of hip, knee, heart and eye problems. Reputable breeders screen for these problems using proven veterinary methods (xray, opthomology, etc.). A clean bill of health, while necessary, does not preclude hidden problems, and is no proof of a dog's genetic makeup. To view certifications from OFA, click here. (please note that only dogs with the SunoJo name are included, as this list was created by searching on our kennel name.Dogs we have brought in or used for stud will not be displayed, as they do not have SunoJo in their registered name. )
• Soundness: This is the dog's physical structure, and how well it performs its function of moving a dog from Point A to Point B. The Shiba was developed as an all-day hunter - they should be able to run effortlessly and seemingly tirelessly. A dog with legs of incorrect proportion (too long, too short) will tire sooner. Legs that are not straight are prone to injury. Elbows that do not fit properly against the ribcage have too much pressure on them, and will develop arthritis. Too long a back means a weak back, and corresponding muscle issues. There are numerous other concerns, but it boils down to Mother Nature is not happy with an animal that cannot run, hunt, jump for its dinner (even when we humans supply dinner on a gold plate!).

Now that part is fairly straightforward - "type" is where fanciers differ in their opinion. I very much appreciate the esthetics of Japanese type, and attempt to follow the Japanese guidelines, while adhering strictly to our Standards.

We discriminate against:

• round and/or light eyes
• large, thin, upright ears
• loose skin, wrinkles
• overdone bodies, too much mass

We select for:

• dark, triangular, oblique eyes
• well filled - in muzzle
• thick, well furred ears
• clear coloured coats, with definite guardhairs
• well proportioned bodies - not short legged nor long bodied
• full and correct dentition

We do not breed every bitch, every season - it depends on the girls' show schedule, what males are available, time of year (I don't like Xmas puppies!) and other factors.

How We Raise Our Shibas:

Our puppies are born in the house, and spend their first 4 weeks underfoot or carried around (a lot!). It is essential that Shiba puppies learn to trust humans, and this is done by lots of contact in the first few weeks of life. This is still a primitive breed, and their first instinct is to avoid everything that is not "mom". So it is our job to teach the puppies that humans are pretty wonderful friends - we bring food, warmth, and are good cuddlers!

We live on 3.5 acres, all fenced, with 1.5 acres dedicated as "Shiba Only" yard. The rest of the property is shared with some Dorset sheep, laying hens and Narragensett turkeys. The dogs all get turns running in their yard, where they can run, dig, chew, chase squirrels & mice (ew) and do all their doggy stuff. When they are in the common yard, they are not supposed to dig in the flower beds or chase the chickens!

Our dog room is attached to the house, with 5 in/out patios so the dogs can sunbathe or snooze inside as they want.

Puppies move into the dog room as their activity levels increase - and also they do NOT want to potty on paper by 5 weeks of age - they want access to the outside. Puppies become part of the family group - we have Japanese Chin (5 lbs of hair and attitude) who teach puppies to respect ALL dogs, no matter how small! Several of our adult Shibas are puppy-crazy, and love to play and entertain the little ones. That's a nice break for Mom and for me!

Diet :
We feed a combination of raw, cooked, and high quality kibble, and feel this is the best we can offer. Note: RAW bones only, cooked bones splinter and can kill your pet!

• RAW: chicken parts (necks & backs) are given whole, starting at 4 weeks - not that they get much down, but they lick and start using those little teeth for more than chewing my fingers! Lamb bones are much loved. I do not recommend beef, as oriental breeds do not have the digestive enzymes to break this down. Pork I hate myself, so don't feed it to the dogs. I do however give the dogs RAW large beef soupbones - safer than Greenies, rawhides, or pig ears/hooves.
• COOKED: I cook chicken, lamb, or fish to produce a thick broth, and then strain out the bones. I then pick off the meat, add rice and pureed veggies and some herbs. Also make scrambled eggs (from our accommodating hens) twice a week.
• KIBBLE: We feed and recommend Go Natural - it is the best dry dog food we have found in over 30 years. Several new varieties have been introduced, including "single protein source" and "grain-free". It is not sold in grocery stores, but in pet food stores and some feed stores.

Immunizations: The American Veterinary Board recently released new protocols for immunizing dogs. It has long been believed by those in the dog world that our dogs were being over immunized, and these new protocols confirm that belief.

SunoJo puppies are seen by our veterinarians at 8 weeks of age, when they are given their first shots (EXCLUDING Lepto and Kennel Cough). Their second shot should be given 6 weeks later. Each puppy is thoroughly examined, and recorded in an individual health folder. Puppies do not leave their mother prior to 8 weeks of age.

Yearly shots are NOT required - every three years is sufficient, and further studies may show that even these are unnecessary. Rabies should be given not before 6 months of age, and boosted every 3 years.

Please check the "Available Dogs" page for availability of puppies.
Whether you're looking for a loving companion or exceptional showman,
SunoJo consistently produces sound, healthy dogs of superb temperament
- just what you’ve been looking for!